Two hours from L.A., the quiet hill town above palm desert is like no other
Grand Canyon

Photograph courtesy of

There is no glamour in Idyllwild. There are no resorts or gondolas or Ugg retailers. That’s not why you come here. Less Burton and more Birkenstock, it’s a sylvan realm for low-budget artists and low-key travelers. Built into the San Jacinto Mountains on the other side of Palm Springs (turn off the 10 at Banning and motor up Highway 243), the village center is banked with gingerbread storefronts selling antiques, books, New Age-y gifts, and local art. A few quaint B&Bs are in town, but you’ll have more choice with a rental— offers everything from cozy two-bedroom Swiss chalets to five-bedroom log cabins. Once settled, you can drive over to Humber Park to build snowmen (see page 138), snowshoe, or cross-country ski on the hiking trails. Warm your bones over dark-roasted coffee and a fresh-baked cranberry scone at Café Aroma. You may find yourself returning for a bowl of potato-leek-garlic bisque at lunch or osso buco and gnocchi at dinner. But by then, after a day in the snowy heights, you might want to stay off-grid in your cabin and stargaze from the Jacuzzi.

Food Lovers