At his namesake restaurant on Melrose, Quinn Hatfield built a reputation for exquisitely calibrated dishes, like a hamachi croque madame with a quail egg crown. But when Hatfield’s closed, the North Carolinian swapped toque for trucker hat and a dining room of muted tones for one of exposed brick and stacked logs. Using an arsenal of open-fire cooking methods—from revolving churrascos to pulley-raised grills—the chef has achieved the most soulful cooking of his career. Cleaver-whacked smoked lamb neck is piled in lettuce cups with a swirl of green hummus. Razor-thin onion rings elevate a churrasco-cooked sirloin cap; oak saturates the delicate flesh of a branzino fillet. Wife Karen gets in on the minimalism, too—a scoop of cheesecake ice cream imparts a finely etched note to a blueberry-topped crème brûlée tart.
The Vibe: Pretty much everything Hatfield’s was not: open, loud, and deliciously smoky.
The Crowd: Carnivores, natch, including trendy folks who shop La Brea’s burgeoning young and arty strip.
The Must-Have Dishes: The bone-in beef short rib is a work of art, and the warm cheese puffs simply must begin any meal. Equally impressive? Karen’s chocolate pie with a rye crust.
The Drinks: The Hatfields have always been on the forefront of L.A. cocktail culture, and their new place is no different. The drinks don’t break any molds, but they don’t have to. The wine list features plenty of bold numbers to support the meat-heavy menu.
Getting a Table: Reservations are encouraged but there is some communal and bar seating available for walk-ins.
Insider Tip: When you think grill, you think red meat, but if you know Quinn Hatfield you know his way with seafood. Order at least one fish dish with your spread and thank us later. – LBS
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