XIV

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xiv

Photograph by Jessica Boone

In spite of the economy, XIV has arrived. CHEF MICHAEL MINA (Stonehill Tavern) has joined with the nightlife company SBE for “fourteen,” as in Louis XIV, who’s evoked in the French chateau-meets-alien spaceship design by Philippe Starck. Everything’s pricey, starting with $14 parking. The “social dining” concept is restrictive: Everyone receives tasting-size portions of the same dishes. Still, there’s no faulting the food. Pumpkin dumplings are the best parts of fall. Ancho chile and mint enliven a tuna tartare. The white chocolate cube is a work of art. Had XIV opened a year ago, we’d be chuckling over all this self-conscious grandeur. Instead it feels out of touch. » 8117 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323-656-1414 or sbe.com/xiv. D nightly. Full bar. New American $$$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone