Wood & Vine

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Could it be? A sophisticated restaurant and cocktail bar at Hollywood and Vine? Indeed, inside the 1923 Taft Building is a steampunk spin on Old Hollywood, with industrial lighting, cushy chairs, and plenty of wood and brass. Sip an old-fashioned cocktail on the second-story perch that peers over the bar and courtyard patio. These days it’s not hard to find a decent Sazerac in town, but paired with a plate of chicken and waffles that would make Roscoe himself go back to the drawing board is something else. Carlsbad mussels have an anise-y kick, thanks to a dash of absinthe. Roasted bone marrow with grilled bread and risotto with hen-of-the-woods and blue-foot mushrooms aim for local provenance and sustainability. If you haven’t had your fill from the bar, try the whisky-flavored ice cream for dessert. The California wine list is as fussed over as the cocktails. // 6280 Hollywood Blvd. (323-334-3360 or woodandvine.com). D nightly. Full bar. New American    $$

Photograph courtesy woodandvine.com