Viet Noodle Bar

Atwater Village

You won’t find a multipage menu here, and your pho arrives sans garnishes. But this Atwater Village spot—with no sign, communal tables, and a bookshelf stocked with American lit—doesn’t need a lot of frills. Its specialty is one thing: noodles. The light-as-a-feather strands are topped with turmeric-seasoned whitefish, tofu skin, or rich ginger broth. The flavors are more subdued than we’re used to, but hey, what’s Vietnamese food without condiments? Unusual appetizers like the Viet tamales—shrimp and rice flour pancakes steamed in banana leaves—and drinks such as the C-Shot, with lemon juice and cayenne pepper, help spice things up. » 3133 1/2 Glendale Blvd., Atwater Village (323-906-1575). L-D daily. No alcohol. Vietnamese   $