We mourned the loss of All’ Angelo, one of L.A.’s finest Italian nooks. In its place is TiroVino, a wine bar (sort of) illuminated by the glow from two giant flat-screen TVs. The front patio is a more convivial setting, where a loop of Fellini’s is projected on the wall. The menu tries to please everyone but underwhelms most. Tuna tartare on “crispy” rice butts up against baseball-size arancini with a confusing mix of peas, beef, and mozzarella. Burrata-filled ravioli is luscious, but the sauce smacks of supermarket fare. Pizzas are more successful, scattered with Italian sausage and mushrooms or prosciutto and arugula. There are more than 50 Italian wines by the glass, including some pricier varietals that are fun to sample without the budget-busting bottle commitment. // 7166 Melrose Ave. (323-933-1800 or tirovinowinebar.com). L-D daily. Beer and wine. Italian  $$