The Royce

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Photograph by Jessica Boone

Brace yourself: The juxtaposition is alarming. A gleaming Vegas-style hall laid out in white and glass has replaced the Langham Huntington’s staid hotel dining room. The flashy cooking of Michael Voltaggio is a hard act to follow, and new chef David Féau’s menu—a study in California simplicity—can seem overwhelmed by the decor. Dished out tableside, a luscious porcini, pear, and chestnut casserole is beyond subtle. Tuna belly with sliced apple, radish, and a 62-degree quail egg is so delicate, it almost disappears . Numerous game meats make more of an impact. Cheese arrives sans cart in imaginative composed dishes. The award-winning wine selection remains intact and is showcased in two glass-enclosed wine cellars. » Langham Huntington, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena (626-585-6410 or theroycela.com). D Tue.-Sat. Full bar. California.  $$$$