The Misfit

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Santa Monica needs another gastropub like it needs another security guard on a Segway. But while we miss Anisette Brasserie, the small-plates operation in its place seems to be a hit. We’re glad the folks behind the Misfit left much of the ornate design scheme alone, like the floor-to-ceiling bar, tile floor, tin ceiling, and sconces reminiscent of vieux Paris. Indie rock has replaced jazz on the stereo, and a racy mural now covers the wall behind the bar. Duck fat fries have given way to a glorious tangle of shoestrings with a honey-mustard sauce—a condiment that appears again on the plate of heavy-handed fried chicken. Considering its proximity to the Santa Monica Farmers’ Market, we’re glad to see that a side of snap peas and a kale salad are available as well as the mini lobster rolls and the BLT burger. No dessert menu? Don’t worry, a little something sweet is offered gratis at the end. » 225 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-656-9800). L-D daily. Full bar. Gastropub   $$

Photograph courtesy of themisfitrestaurant.com