The Golden State

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goldenstate_p Photograph courtesy Flickr/montageman

That the “beer float” hasn’t become an American staple is beyond us: A single scoop of gelato (courtesy of Scoops) bobs in a pint of pitch-black Old Rasputin Imperial Stout. This combination of cream, carbonation, and yeasty sweetness is served in a space that feels more like an Internet café than a gastropub and seems out of place among the babka-slinging bakeries on Fairfax. The hip crowd doesn’t appear to mind. The menu is gussied-up ballpark classics—burgers and dogs with ingredients worth name dropping (Harris Ranch beef, Fiscalini Farms cheddar, Let’s Be Frank grass-fed hot dogs) plus a few sandwiches (muffuletta, BLTA) and the occasional special. Pretty much required on the side: jalapeño-cabbage slaw, sweet potato wedges with aioli, and any of the rotating microbrews. » 426 N. Fairfax Ave. (323-782-8331 or goldenstatecafe.com). L-D Tue.-Sun. Beer and wine. Gastropub $

Photograph courtesy Flickr/montageman