Taberna Mexicana

344

There’s not a whole lot of Mexican food in the heart of Beverly Hills, which has us excusing some of Taberna Mexicana’s shortcomings. You’ve seen all this before, and better, just not in this neighborhood. Scallop ceviche is heavy on the juice. A whole roasted branzino is light and moist, while the clunky escabeche leaves something to be desired. We like the thought put into details such as the crispy plantain chips for the salsa, the handmade corn tortillas, and the rustic green mole on the rabbit enchiladas. (OK, maybe you haven’t seen all this before.) Should you need a margarita after a trip to Barneys, this sugar-soused one will do. » 369 N. Bedford Dr. (310-858-7070 or tabernamexicana.com). L-D daily. Full bar. Mexican  $$$

Photograph courtesy tabernamexicana.com