Sugarfish

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You’ve heard of Sushi Nozawa—home of the “Sushi Nazi,” Kazunori Nozawa—where the wrong order can get you thrown out on your ear with a “Too many California roll!” This newcomer, looking a lot like a prototype for a chain, is a spin-off billed as its antidote—the anti-Nozawa restaurant. Odd but true. Sort of. The staff is California friendly, the decor fast-food mod, but the menu is as fascistic as you’d expect (Nozawa’s son Tom is in the kitchen). It comes in three basic renditions: Trust Me #1, Trust Me #2, and Trust Me #3. Each is larger than the last, and all are composed of coldedamame and tuna sashimi followed by singularly unexciting variations on a yellowtail-toro-crab roll theme. Think McSushi. On the plus side, the bill includes the tip, eliminating all that arithmetic torture. »47221/4Admiralty Way (310-306-6300 or sugarfishsushi.com). L-D daily. Beer and sake. Sushi  $$-$$$

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