Steingarten LA

Sausage is having an L.A. moment, and where encased meats go, craft beers usually follow. Riding the links-and-suds wave is Steingarten LA, a former Mexican restaurant turned lively gastropub. The space is divided into various nooks: bar, dining room, semi-private front room, and rear courtyard with a fire pit that begs for some marshmallow toasting. The sausages run the gamut from the standard Polish, Italian, and brat to game meats, including venison and alligator. Duck and bacon is the juiciest, but the bison wins our vote for flavor impact. If you prefer your meat sans casing, the hormone-free grass-fed burgers channel Umami: They’re bold, drippy, and compact. There’s also an odd menu of what the restaurant calls tapas, which include a soft pretzel, short rib with plantains, and sliders. The bar’s 20 taps rotate among mostly domestic pours, while an extensive bottle list highlights some of Belgium’s best. // 10543 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A. (310-441-0441 or L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. Full bar. Gastropub  $

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