[West L.A.]

Photograph courtesy Shunji

The corrugated metal sign hints at the space’s former life as a Mr. Cecil’s rib joint. But inside, behind the eight-seat sushi bar, is Shunji Nakao, who once wielded knives at Valley favorite Asanebo. He’s preparing elaborate omakase-style meals (there’s an à la carte menu as well), with a sharp focus on vegetables. Orbs of purple potato and blue cheese, monkfish liver, and marinated tomato parade down the plate. Braised octopus is part of a trio, along with yellowtail slivers and raw squid in a seaworthy sludge of squid ink and urchin. At about $80 a head, this is a warranted indulgence. » 12244 W. Pico Blvd., 310-826-4737 or