Sergeant Recruiter

Los Feliz

Just 14 bar stools in a side room off Cobras & Matadors (it’s from the same folks), Sergeant Recruiter—named after a Parisian wine bar—serves some lesser-known French, Italian, and domestic wines along with a small menu of bistro fare. The menu, written on a mirror hanging above the copper bar, includes oysters, moules frites, steak frites, onion rings, and socca cakes from next door. The oysters are briny and clean on a bed of ice, and the mussels are large and sweet. The frites sometimes come piping, at other times soggy. The bar staff love a challenge. Tell them what you like in a wine and they’ll find a match. » 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz (323-669-3922). D nightly. Beer and wine. French         $