Santa Monica Seafood

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smseafoodmarket_p Photograph courtesy keepwaddling1

The Harrod’s of all things edible from the ocean has left its longtime location on Colorado Avenue and taken over an old Carl’s Jr. on Wilshire. Inside is the same luxe gallery of fish. By the front entrance, people clutching pagers wait for one of the six or so tables in the new restaurant. Café standards are the focus: steamed mussels and clams, chowders, grilled fish sandwiches, salads. The Dungeness crab Louie is a generous mound of crab flecked with crunchy cucumber and hearts of palm; the savory albacore tuna melt arrives on crisp toasted sourdough; the cioppino stars perfectly moist seafood in an aromatic broth. The oyster bar is worth a visit, if just for the kusshi from Washington State. The addition this summer of a half-dozen tables outside should make a dent in the wait, or you can spend time admiring all the pretty fish. » 1000 Wilshire Blvd., 310-393-5244 or smseafood.com. L-D daily. Beer and wine. Seafood  $$

Photograph courtesy Flickr/keepwaddling1