Pizzeria Il Fico

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This inconspicuous Robertson spot (formerly Maison Richard) from chefs Nicola Mastronardi and Guiseppe Gentile of Brentwood’s Vincenti is no mere pie producer. The rough vegetal flavors of Puglia, on the heel of Italy’s boot, come through unadulterated in the orecchiette with rapini and sausage, hunks of roasted pecorino with fresh favas, and octopus tendrils with smashed potatoes, olives, capers, and cherry tomatoes. Pizzas are made bubbly by a wood-fueled fire and satisfy purists and adventurers alike. The margherita is a crystal-clear ode to the tomato, while the carbonara is a sharp spin on the classic pasta with pecorino, guanciale, and an egg that’s still runny in the middle. The servers treat even first-timers like famiglia. On Robertson, that alone is worth a pizza party.  » 310 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A. (310-271-3426 or pizzeriailfico.com). L-D daily. Beer and wine. Italian  $$

Photograph by Lisa Romerein