Pici Enoteca


Photograph courtesy pici.co

Look past (if you can) the hopping scene at South Beverly Grill and Chin Chin’s fire-breathing patio to find the modest green awning of Pici Enoteca. The restaurant’s namesake is a Tuscan hand-rolled spaghetti-like pasta that comes tossed in one of several standard sauces—vodka, puttanesca, bolognese, and tomato, basil, and garlic—and all are fine versions. Artichoke fritters are stuffed with Boursin cheese and set atop a smear of herb aioli. Greasy, crackerlike pizzas barely qualify as such, but we’ll admit we found them comforting in a guilty pleasure sort of way. A chopped salad comes fully loaded—this is Beverly Hills, after all—and the requisite burrata-tomato concoction could use some seasoning. There are gaps in the authentic Italian experience, but the service—warm, hands-on, and familial—is not one of them. » 212 S. Beverly Dr. (310-274-7424). L-D Mon.-Sat. Beer and wine. Italian  $$