How bold, to open a caviar shop and café in these times. The revamped Petrossian store—emerging after a four-month closure with a new casual restaurant—is lovely, approachable, and depending on what you order, downright affordable. The young chef, Benjamin Bailly, works a menu of meticulous Eastern European and Scandinavian-inspired classics. The borscht—the cold soup of 2009—is impeccable. It’s silky and sweet, with the requisite dollop of crème fraîche. A threesome of thick-cut smoked salmon—one traditional, one dill-marinated, and one treated with Petrossian’s Black Sea spice—comes with the most perfect toast points we’ve seen, presented in a silver rack. There is, of course, caviar, and full tastings will set you back any number of Jacksons. We opted for the caviar trio: mini portions of three grades (the large, just enough for two, is only $18). » 321 N. Robertson Blvd. (310-271-0576). L-D daily; brunch Sun. Beer and wine. Café          $$$