Photograph courtesy papilles.com
Between a Pilates studio and a doughnut shop in a Hollywood minimall is this surprising, slapped-together French bistro from the owners of downtown’s Mignon wine bar. The kitchen aims high and sometimes delivers. A three-course prix fixe menu (the price varies, but expect to spend about $35 per person) is the rule; there are two choices per course. Tahitian squash velouté? Balanced, vegetal, and lovely. Smoked tuna with caviar? Like sitting on the wrong side of a campfire. Sea bass, cooked perfectly, is elegant albeit a tad underseasoned. To say the service has kinks is like describing the setting as “humble,” but at least the vibe is consistent. » 6221 Franklin Ave., 323-871-2026 or papillesla.com.
