Thus far L.A.’s idea of Korean fusion has been inexorably tied to tacos. In a daring effort at cross-pollination, chef Gary Robins is trying his hand at what we’ll call nouveau Cal-Korean cuisine. (It’s complicated.) His banchan—small dishes served with almost every Korean meal—utilize seasonal ingredients like snap peas, watermelon, and chiogga beets. Jidori chicken stars in a lighter riff on Korean spicy chicken wings. The further Robins strays from tradition, the better. His Korean BBQ offerings come pregrilled and miss the point completely. Those pan-fried duck and foie gras dumplings with a sour cherry sauce, however, are just our kind of crazy. » 9540 Culver Blvd., Culver City (310-838-3131 or L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Full bar. Modern Korean $$

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