On a less-than-charming stretch of Hollywood Boulevard, chef Alberto Lazzarino (Il Moro, Piccolo Ristorante) cooks northern Italian food with minimal fuss. Couples converse on comfy banquettes in a space that is both intimate and airy, thanks to 18-foot ceilings and piped-in Ella Fitzgerald. A warm vegetable flan antipasto offers a delicate counterpoint to a menu heavy on grains and meat. Black truffles and braised radicchio lend an earthy flavor to risotto, and a crust of herbed bread crumbs enlivens oven-roasted lamb chops. Tough, bitter short ribs, however, made us thankful for the minuscule portion. Experienced servers suggest smart wine pairings from the exclusively Italian list. » 6541 Hollywood Blvd. (323-465-6650 or D Tue.-Sun. Full bar. Italian   $$$