Mäni’s on Maple

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The popular Fairfax bakery with a healthful slant has expanded to a fine-dining restaurant in the contemporary space that was briefly home to Paperfish. The high design (loads of glass and light wood, bright orange padded walls, a wave-shaped bar) is hard to live up to. These are the kinds of rustic dishes that one could make at home on an ambitious evening or relish in a small corner café: barbecue-sauced short ribs on polenta, mushroom risotto made with farro, a fruit-forward ceviche with thick tortilla chips, and a frilly strawberry layer cake from the original bakery. Paired with hip cocktails in the dramatic, museum-like cavern, the simple food is overwhelmed. » 345 N. Maple Dr. (310-247-0009 or manisonmaple.com). B-L-D daily. Full bar. California  $$

 
Photograph courtesy manisonmaple.com