Maison Maurice

Enter through the monogrammed glass doors of Maison Maurice and you’re transported to France. On the right, behind a classic red-hued bar, a screen plays black-and-white movies. On the left, a softly lit dining room is gussied up with curtains and chandeliers. The brasserie menu is simpler than the surroundings. Traditional dishes like the piquant poulet au poivre and the buttery sole meunière are lovely, but skip the rubbery napoleon for dessert. The surprise is the bill. Most entrées are less than $20. » 8620 Wilshire Blvd. (310-967-0021). D Tue.-Sun. Beer and wine. French    $$ 
Photograph courtesy