Sang Yoon is primarily known as the creator of the Father’s Office burger. That’s not a bad rep (or a bad burger), but it seriously undervalues the chef’s talent. Now in a hypermodern space so glossy you might slip off your chair, Yoon is doing to the cuisines of Southeast Asia what he did to ground beef. The spicy chicken pops are a lesson in the tingling effect of Szechuan peppercorns. A whole steamed fish (it changes daily) slathered in black bean ghee and topped with cilantro is promptly devoured. A crudo of Spanish mackerel with coconut vinegar and green papaya cools things down. Sauces are made in-house. As at Father’s Office next door, beverages are as well thought out as the food. Dessert comes gratis—we hope this catches on.  » 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City (310-202-6808 or D nightly. Full bar. Southeast Asian  $$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone