Little Dom's

Los Feliz

A film noir aesthetic pervades this spin-off of West Hollywood fixture Dominick’s. Stained-glass windows make the restaurant’s two rooms feel like intimate chambers—one flanked by a wood bar, the other by deep leather booths, both made for lingering. Los Feliz locals come for high-end basics with a mix of northern Italian and California influences. A plate of roasted beets and burrata is clean and sweet. Meyer lemon pesto gives a nice edge to tuna crudo. A generous portion of grilled blue bass arrives with cavolo nero and baby yams. Desserts are simple but satisfying. » 2128 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz (323-661-0055 or D nightly. Full bar. Italian           $$