Larry’s

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We’re not sure which is more daring: a restaurant that serves a barbecued eel and foie gras terrine ten feet from the Venice Beach boardwalk, or some of the fashion choices we saw wandering past. Brendan Collins has been cooking at Waterloo & City, where he remains executive chef, and he’s now extending his reach with this casual open-air restaurant and bar. The place is named for acclaimed Venice Beach sculptor Larry Bell; works by local artists decorate the walls. Twenty-six craft beers are on tap at the round bar covered in multicolored tiles. The menu is as much a mixed bag as the crowd, with a number of approachable pizzas as well as green gazpacho with squid salad and green grapes, and fried, shrimp-stuffed zucchini blossoms. Venice’s dining scene has been ambitious for a while now, but this is the first time you can experience it with an ocean view. » 24 Windward Ave., Venice (310-399-2700 or larrysvenice.com). L-D daily. Beer and wine. New American  $$

Photograph by Misha Gravenor