La Cachette Bistro

sommelier_p Photograph by Jessica Boone

Jean-François Meteigner closed his classic French dining room, buried in a Century City residential neighborhood, to open a modern bistro by the same name smack on bustling Ocean Avenue. The menu is equal parts coq au vin and coffee-rubbed short ribs, which is to say a mishmash of traditional French and New American cuisines. Both work fine. Luscious house-cured trout is paired with a mustardy warm potato salad. A rhubarb spread sets off a warm foie gras terrine. While we expected the pristine bouillabaisse, the menu of Asian-inspired raw options was a surprise. Ahi tartare with Korean chili paste? Sacré bleu! » 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica (310-434-9509 or L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar. Bistro $$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone