Kula Sushi Bistro

Century City

Century City’s former Aphrodisiac space is now the stateside branch of Kula, a Japanese sushi chain. Most of the rolls take cues from  the  California avocado-cucumber-fake-crab variety, but the crustacean here is the real thing. Hearty dishes include house-made tofu, miso-grilled black cod, and soft-shell crab tempura. One surprise is the miso soup, made with kabocha squash and stuffed with green onions, potato slices, and big tofu lumps. The staff may be overzealous, but the dark wood, sleek white booths, and diffused lighting help the diners, at least, remain calm. » 10351 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City (310-282-8870 or kulasushi.com). L-D daily. Full bar. Japanese      $$