Husband-and-wife chefs Quinn and Karen Hatfield have moved into an expansive new space on Melrose Avenue. The star is the kitchen, separated from the dining room by a glass wall. It takes confident chefs to display every move, and that comes through in dishes that aren’t flashy, just spot-on delicious: a croque madame features yellowtail sashimi and a fried quail egg between two rounds of buttery brioche, rack of lamb is smeared with fresh dates and mint, and Thanksgiving-worthy haricots verts accompany flaky loup de mer. From the cocktails (a new addition) to the incredible desserts (those beignets), the operation is refreshingly assured.  » 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A.(323-935-2977 or hatfieldsrestaurant.com). D nightly. Full bar. New American   $$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone