Deceivingly casual, Forage is an order-at-the-counter spot with knockout comfort dishes displayed behind glass. That’s a good thing, because the polenta lasagna slathered with béchamel and beefed up with pungent strands of slow-roasted brisket is in serious danger of being drooled on by customers—OK, us. The menu is surprisingly unvegetarian for the neighborhood, with chorizo adding spice to a side of chickpeas and pork belly layered in a mammoth sandwich. Should you crave a vegetable, chef Jason Kim doesn’t stop with the farmers’ market; he uses surplus goods from customers’ backyards.»3823 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake (323-663-6885). L-D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sun. No alcohol. California $$