Farm Shop

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You spot the pastry case first, with its pitch-black chocolate cookies, glistening muffins wrapped in paper, and softball-size meringues that look frozen in time. Chef Jeff Cerciello opened the original Ad Hoc and Bouchon for Thomas Keller, and his grasp of casual yet sensual dining persists in this shabby-chic (emphasis on the latter) café, bakery, and market venture at the Brentwood Country Mart. The name comes from the original 1948 store (Farm House) that occupied the space, but it’s also a theme. Dungeness crabmeat sits amid halved sunchokes and butter lettuce leaves dressed with a light citrus vinaigrette. Fried artichokes are plated simply with slices of winter squash, a sprinkling of pumpkin seeds, and a few lumps of burrata. It’s a kind of unadulterated cooking that Angelenos are familiar with, but we’re still amazed when it soars. Sandwiches are bolstered by custom rye and wheat breads from Tavern and house-made brioche. Breakfast and weekend brunch are forums for farm-fresh eggs, served deviled with smoked trout or sunny side up with pastrami. » 225 26th St. (310-566-2400 or farmshopla.com). B-L Mon.-Fri.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Alcohol license pending. California   $$$

 
Photograph courtesy brentwoodcountrymart.com