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The servers at nightlife impresario David Judaken’s first official restaurant speak in superlatives. “It’s the freshest fish in all of Los Angeles, flown in daily from Hono­lulu.” “It’s the best roasted chicken you’ll ever have—our owner is willing to bet on it.” We’re not gambling folks, though the bird—su­permoist and served with bamboo rice—was delicious. All this wide-eyed enthusiasm is refreshing, and the effort shows in everything from the creative raw preparations to the (insert superlative here) decor: Dracula’s lair by way of Tokyo, courtesy of designer Dodd Mitchell. The Dinosaur Egg is raw albacore with unagi  sauce cradled in a tender avocado shell. Slices of Hawaiian walu are drizzled with mustard-miso sauce. Flash without ambition is the norm on Hollywood Boulevard these days. This has both.  » 6611 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood (323-462-3278 or east-hollywood.com). D Tue.-Sun. Full bar. Pan-Asian  ?$$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone