It would seem nothing could live up to the grand entrance to Delphine, the brasserie inside Hollywood’s brand-new W hotel. The lobby is an over-the-top explosion of ’60s lounge and pre-economic-crisis glitz; walking through it makes the refined California cool of Delphine seem almost anticlimactic at first. The Côte D’Azur theme is expressed via a breezy menu that features gleaming towers of oysters, silver cones of piping-hot frites, fresh Francophile salads, a traditional croque monsieur, sizzling steak au poivre, and a hefty macaroni gratin. Everything looks, tastes, and feels effortless except the service, which is all over the place. The small list of rotating nightly specials has us planning return trips on Friday for bouillabaisse served in a cast-iron pot and on Sunday for cassoulet. Wines are offered by the bottle, glass, and carafe, and one of the W’s two bars is located here, mixing up throwback and nouveau cocktails. » W Hotel, 6250 Hollywood Blvd. (323-798-1355). B-L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar. Brasserie  $$$ 

Photograph courtesy