Cole's

Downtown
348
coles_p 

Illustration by Nishant Choski

Nightlife impresario Cedd Moses has revamped (read thoroughly cleaned) Cole’s Pacific Electric Buffet. The century-old dive is one of two spots that claim to have invented the French dip sandwich (Philippe’s is the other). Moses has brought in consulting chef Neal Fraser (Grace, BLD) to rework the classic ’wich, offered with the traditional beef as well as turkey, pork, and lamb fillings. All meats are hand carved, piled into a roll, and served with spicy pickles and a cup of jus. The result is flavorful but not the stuff of legends. Better is the bacon-potato salad and the bourbon-pecan pie. Try one of the throwback cocktails; in this historic hang, a Sazerac is tops. » 118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213-622-4090 or colesfrenchdip.com. L-D daily. Full bar. American $

Photograph by Gina Sabatella