Photograph courtesy cocolaurent.com
This grand French enterprise strives, like its neighbor Bottega Louie, to be a little bit of everything. Three meals a day are served in the 350-seat dining room and on the patio strewn with bistro chairs. On the other side of the foyer (yes, there is one) is a fancy coffee and pastry operation. If only the goods lived up to the pomp. How an avocado and shrimp terrine qualifies as French, we’re not sure. The beef tartare with thin waffle chips fares much better. Beef bourguignonne could use more salt and fewer potatoes, but duck confit satisfies. It’s a pleasant enough spot that we’ll be returning to for brunch—with lower expectations. » 707 S. Grand Ave., 213-623-0008 or cocolaurent.com.