SBE’s newest culinary venture has a Middle Eastern slant, something the nightlife company’s Iranian American CEO, Sam Nazarian, should know a thing or two about. Cleo features high-backed velvet chairs, moss green walls, and a stunner of an exhibition kitchen. The supersize menu from chef Daniel Elmaleh needs focus. Mezes include a htipiti dip made with sweet piquillo peppers and kabobs ranging from lamb kefta to an impressive assortment of offal. Among the larger plates are a few tagines, laffa flatbreads, and a roasted leg of Sonoma lamb. Presentations could be flashier, and those sugar-rimmed cocktails have got to go. » The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood (323-962-1717). D nightly. Full bar. Mediterranean  $$


Photograph by Jessica Boone