You won’t find the tablecloths and quiet conversation of Ado, the older venture from the charming team of chef Antonio Mure and maître d’ Paolo Cesaro. The Marina del Rey spin-off is a raucous destination beside the Venice Pier, where the sound of the waves is drowned out by crowds twirling reasonably priced pastas. The house-made preparations range from the mainstream (an OK tagliatelle bolognese) to the intriguing (tagliolini tinted pink with beet juice on a bed of Parmesan fondue). As for the secondi, meats outshine seafood—especially the butterflied quail in a marsala demi-glace. » 12 Washington Blvd., 310-577-2589 or casaado.com.