cache_p Photograph courtesy

In the expansive space that once housed Hidden, Josiah Citrin is striving for a middle ground between his formal Mélisse and his lunch spot, Lemon Moon. What he ends up with looks hip, to be sure—we’ll sit by a fire pit with an herb-infused cocktail all night. The menu, on the other hand, isn’t breaking any molds. Charcuterie and cheese? Check. Mason jars of spreadable treats? Yep. Tuna tartare, shrimp cocktail, and a beet salad? Bien sûr. On deeper inspection, these classics are a notch up from the norm. One mason jar holds an obscenely rich mix of eggplant and tapenade, the ahi in the tartare is flawless, and the beet salad comes with silky burrata. Among the main courses is a flaky loup de mer with crispy skin so good we’d eat it by itself and a Kurobuta pork chop the size of the table. What sealed the meal? The Chocolate Crunch—a Butterfinger-textured chocolate explosion dusted with cocoa powder. » 3110 Main St. (310-399-4800 or D nightly. Full bar. New American  $$$

Photograph courtesy