BLT Steak

LA Cienega and West Hollywood

A meal at New York chef Laurent Tourondel’s first L.A. venture begins with a small jar of warm chicken liver served with slices of pain rustique, followed by softball-size Emmenthal popovers (with the recipe attached). Mains arrive à la carte, and steaks range from a monster porterhouse for two to a ten-ounce Wagyu top cap. Dover sole meunière and a crispy Cantonese-style whole snapper are the seafood stars. Hefty sides are worth it: stuffed mushroom caps, a leaning tower of onion rings, and potatoes prepared six ways, including gnocchi style. Chanel-suited Le Dôme holdovers fill the butterscotch booths, happy with this new Sunset Strip standout. » 8720 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (310-360-1950 or D nightly. Full bar. Steak House  $$$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone