Bistro LQ

sommelier_p Photograph by Jessica Boone

Beverly Boulevard is not South Pasadena, and French chef Laurent Quenioux—who shuttered South Pas’s Bistro K to open Bistro LQ in the former Mimosa space—knows it. Here he’s pulled out all the stops. The mixed results (editing can be a good thing) don’t mean the ambition isn’t impressive. Each dish stars at least one ingredient that had us raising eyebrows, and we’re not talking about unusual proteins like headcheese and oregano-scented tripe. Foie gras is layered with quince marshmallow. Duck breast comes with Campari and cucumber gelée. Overly deconstructed presentations and the stark decor skew toward the 1980s, but these flavor combinations are new. » 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A. (323-951-1088). D Tue.-Sat. Beer and wine. Modern French $$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone