Beso

Hollywood and Melrose
331

Eva Longoria and Todd English’s huge space is swanky in a New Hollywood way. The U-shaped marble bar (outstanding cocktails) and lounge pave the way to a dining room where, considering the pop wattage of the owners, a relatively staid crowd dines under chandeliers dripping from 60-foot bow-truss ceilings. The steak house menu has been spiced up with such Latin elements as guacamole (avocado or artichoke), Longoria’s tortilla soup, a taco bar, and a ceviche selection. The crispy lamb ribs might—should—kick-start a backlash to the ubiquitous spareribs riddling local menus, and a bone-in rib eye and a whole roasted fish are reminders of the simple alchemy of fire and food. Our sympathies to the hostesses, whose torturously high heels are part of the uniform. » 6350 Hollywood Blvd. (323-467-7991). D Mon.-Sat. Full bar. Latin Steak House            $$$

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