Barton G.

[West Hollywood]

There is a four-foot fork stuck in our steak—or rather, stuck in the cutting board on which our $65 filet sits. Triton accident? Cutlery fetish? No, this is Barton G., a Miami import famous for over-the-top presentations that’s trying its luck on L.A.’s restaurant row. Lobster mingles with Gruyère in a phyllo “pop tart,” which is presented in a real live toaster. Cotton candy is molded into a wig for a Marie Antoinette-style bust bedecked with mini cakes. Depending on how much you like waiters taking your picture with dining props, the operation generally succeeds in providing dinner and a show. Liquid nitrogen cocktails succeed in providing a hangover. » 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., 310-388-1888.