Apple Restaurant & Lounge

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Yes, it’s part of a nightlife complex that includes the Pussycat Dolls Lounge. But with Bryan Ogden, son of James Beard award winner Bradley Ogden, in the kitchen, Apple has some culinary cred. The über-upscale atmosphere—two glowing walls of water and a fantastical gray banquette curving overhead—feels out of touch with the times. What’s on the plate—stellar ingredients left to speak for themselves—is very now. Pork belly croquettes float in a bowl of split pea soup. Chicken “oysters” are topped with prosciutto and spiked with citrus. Crisped gnocchi dot rosy pork tenderloin. The crème fraîche cheesecake is a tiered treasure. » 665 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood (310-358-9191). D Wed.-Mon. Full bar. California $$$$

Photograph by Jessica Boone