Animal

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On their Food Network show 2 Dudes Catering, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo were known for their anti-slacker attitude, bold cooking, and long locks. The tresses have been shorn, but the loud style is in full effect at Animal, their new restaurant on Fairfax. The tiny spot is bare-bones: no sign, no colors, no tablecloths. Just exposed lightbulbs, noise, and pig (two of our appetizers came with slab bacon and pork belly). The menu changes daily, the wine list weekly. Our meals included fried quail with grits, mahimahi with fava beans, and amberjack poke with harissa. Everything hit the mark, but nothing wowed. (Not to blaspheme, but is there such a thing as too much bacon?) Still, we’re confident that with these two, we’ll see our share of triumphant dishes. » 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A. (323-782-9225). D Mon.-Sun. Beer and wine. New American $$

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