You may recognize Zach Pollack from his other role as the man throwing speckled Neapolitan pies into the oven at Sotto. You’ll now know him as the chef who brought bagna cauda and rye tagliatelle to Silver Lake. Unlike Sotto, the glass-and-plywood-lined cubby isn’t rooted in one region of Italy. Here Pollack pairs rosy chicken liver crostone with black plum mostarda and his marvelous bread. Handmade tortellini en brodo are plump pockets of prosciutto and broth. The “Pigs in a Blanket” is a naughty little sandwich that sets braised mortadella between buttery spelt pastry. Grüner Vetliner on draft, too? Oh, behave. » 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., 323-928-2888.