A mammoth bronze Buddha looms above the sushi bar at this upscale Japanese-fusion restaurant. The French influence is clear from the gilded sconces to the silky layer of foie gras between two pucks of braised daikon. While the run-of-the-mill sushi assortment is fine, we suggest the surprising small plates such as the Dynamite—a shellfish-stuffed tomato baked with a spicy cream sauce—or the Collagen Terrine, made with a pork gelée that the menu claims is “skin nourishing.” A happening happy hour (10 to midnight daily and 6 until closing on Sunday) offers little bites like salmon escabeche, seaweed salad, and fried oysters for $3 to $5 as well as half-off cocktails. » 514 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-289-1940 or D nightly. Full bar. Japanese    $$

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