Ado

397

The little yellow house that was once Amuse is now home to chef Antonio Muré (formerly of Piccolo and Il Carpaccio). If you’ve ever wanted a boisterous Italian family dinner, here you go. Waiters carry trays of pasta up and down the staircase that separates the kitchen from the cozy (understatement) dining room, shouting to one another in Italian. Firm baby artichokes mixed with lump crabmeat make for a massive starter. The house-cured quail prosciutto is a worthy challenger to pork. Tagliolini with zucchini and walnut pesto is on the raw side of al dente, but we don’t mind. Nor do we the burratamelted atop our veal chop. Muré’s not doing anything new here, but that’s fine by us. » 796 Main St., Venice (310-399-9010 or adovenice.com). D Tue.-Sun. Beer and wine. Italian $$$

Photography courtesy adovenice.com