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Roy Choi of Kogi truck fame doesn’t do subtle, and his latest concept inside a stunner of a converted IHOP is anything but. The theme is “picnic,” which, from what we can tell, means all the food is served family style, you eat with your hands more than usual, and you sit with strangers (every table is communal). We can’t remember ever bringing  coconut-milk clam chowder or buttery kettle corn sprinkled with furikake to the park. Nor were our peel-and-eat shrimp this plump or our pork ribs this spicy. Salt and fat are an obsession for Choi, so buckle up. The fun punch-bowl cocktails and craft beers are oh-so-now. » 12565 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City (310-398-7700 or aframela.com). D nightly. Full bar. New American $$

 
Photograph by Jessica Boone