Number 9 on our list of Best New Restaurants of 2009

Photograph by Jessica Boone

Rustic paneling mingles with white linens and kitchen views to create a compact stage for Mark Gold. He greets regulars, buses tables, speaks a little louder for a pair of older couples, makes chocolate egg creams for beaming kids. Having worked for Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group and for Joe Miller in Venice, Gold learned the importance of focus and pacing from some of our finest: This is not a chef who keeps customers waiting because he needs to fuss. Gold’s brand of American bistro fare mines ethnic richness in dishes such as a lively “linguini” with clams that features soba noodles, and poached beef with buttery cauliflower puree that could make a St. Louis hausfrau proud. The family-style $35 Sunday suppers might include chicken tagine, braised brisket, romaine salad crowned with hand-torn croutons, and limitless pours. That’ll bring the neighbors every time.

Golden Rules
Chef Mark Gold, known for his front-of-the-house antics, offers tips for chefs who dare enter the dining room

Quality Control
“Parade raw fish or meat around the room only if it’s the best in the world.”

Chill Out
“Many chefs, including me, need to watch their intensity. You’re not behind closed doors, like in the kitchen.”

Back Off
“Pay attention to who wants to be spoken to. You get the sense if someone wants to be left alone.”

»7458 Beverly Boulevard // Los Angeles // 323-634-0700 or evarestaurantla.com