Lou on Wine: Weingut Knauss “Without All” Trollinger 2013

A German red that doesn’t mind getting cold

Andi Knauss is a brilliant winegrower from Swabia, a southern German land with zero international reputation for producing wine. Nevertheless, Knauss creates a seemingly infinite spectrum of rieslings, and also a bit of wine made from trollinger, a local red grape. Trollinger is a light, mineral red that you can put a chill on, if you are so inclined. Knauss’s version, “Without All,” uses neither sulfites nor chaptalization (a common process whereby sugar is added to fermenting wine to amp up the alcohol level). There’s a smidgen of spritz at first, but it blows off quickly, revealing an earthy, gluggy, and compelling antidote to the new-world fruit bomb.

Food pairing: The namesake dough pouches at Studio City’s Mantee.

Available at: Domaine LA, 6801 Melrose Ave., Hollywood; $18

Lou Amdur is the owner of Lou Wine Shop & Tastings.